The Traditions of Hong Kong

By Sandra Scott

Hong Kong is an amazing place! It is extremely modern with towering skyscrapers ringing the harbor and new buildings going up all the time. Yet traditions are not forgotten. The Hong Kong Tourist Board offers a wonderful selection of activities to help visitors learn about the cultural heritage of the city. Many are free or nearly free.

After looking at the choices, I decided that John and I should learn more about Cantonese opera, so I signed us up for the Cantonese Opera Appreciation Class to which John responded, “Cantonese opera! There weren’t any other choices?” Of course there were, but that was the subject we knew the least about. We spent the morning at the Hong Kong Heritage Museum where we learned that the high pitch of the singers and the bold makeup came about because the art form has been around since the 13^th century, long before A/V equipment.  The makeup and pitch allowed everyone in the audience, which numbered in the thousands, to see and hear the performance.  Our class concluded with attendance at a Cantonese opera.  Amazing—learning about a subject makes it more understandable and enjoyable.  When our teacher/guide indicated that it was time to leave even though the performance wasn’t over, John suggested, “Let’s stay to the end.” Which we did.

Another Hong Kong tradition is the daily firing of the Noon Day Gun, a Hotchkiss three-pounder. The British are no longer in control of Hong Kong, but the tradition that started over an incident in the 1860s continues and is now a tourist draw.

But my favorite British tradition in Hong Kong is Afternoon Tea at the Peninsula Hotel. Just say the words “Peninsula Hotel” to any well-traveled person and their eyes light up. The Peninsula hotels are special. How many hotels can announce: “The Peninsula Hong Kong has just welcomed its latest fleet of 14 Rolls-Royce Extended Wheelbase Phantoms, all finished in signature Peninsula Green?” We couldn’t afford to stay at the Peninsula in Hong Kong but we could afford to let some of the shine and glamour rub off on us by having Afternoon Tea.

The Peninsula’s rituals are rooted in British custom. The Duchess of Bedford is credited with launching the fashion of afternoon tea in 1830. Tea became a time to share gossip and show off one’s prettiest teapots and china, so hostesses vied with each other to produce the most delectable sweets and elegant table settings. The Peninsula preserves this tradition by serving tea in cups of eggshell-thin bone china, and with crisp white linens. Tea is served in The Lobby, with its classical columns and gargoyles. It begins with savory finger sandwiches (crustless, of course) filled with smoked salmon, egg, chicken, prawns or cucumber accompanied by warm, buttery scones made from the Peninsula’s recipe served with strawberry jam and satiny Devonshire clotted cream. Sweets include Valhrona chocolate praline and truffle, tiramisu with green tea, and hazelnut macaroons. Everything is served with a selection of Peninsula teas. We took our time savoring our Afternoon Tea experience, listening to the live music of the Lobby Strings and watching the people.  A wonderful experience!

Too much of a good thing is wonderful.  So we returned to the Peninsula for a goodnight drink.  This time we headed to the 28^th floor and Felix Bar. The fleet of Rolls Royces and Afternoon Tea may be traditional but the Peninsula is not stodgy. If tea is steeped in tradition then the Felix is space age. Created by world-famous avant-garde designer Philippe Starck, the Felix dazzles both inside and out. The interior competes with the most incredible sweeping views of the harbor and Hong Kong's skyline.  But that is not all.  The verde aver and white cararra marble bathrooms designed by Philippe Starck are a sight to behold—with a panoramic view of all of Hong Kong – no matter what your are doing!

The Peninsula Hotel is a metaphor for Hong Kong – a wonderful mix of the past, anchored in the present, but looking toward the future.

Visit http://hongkong.peninsula.com and www.discoverhongkong.com.

Sandra Scott is a frequent contributor to travel publications and to Copley News Service and has co-authored two books on local history. She lives in Mexico, NY.
Images by Sandra and J. J. Scott

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