Surprised in Myanmar

By Sandra Scott

John and I didn’t know what to expect when we booked our flight to Myanmar. Called Burma by the British during colonization, Myanmar is the name given to the country by the military regime in 1989. It was chosen because it has historical roots and is more inclusive of minorities.  We were surprised, and a bit embarrassed, to learn that Yangon, formally called Rangoon, is no longer the capital.  In 2005 the national capital was moved from Yangon north to Nay Pyi Taw, which is still under construction.

The streets of Yangon are lined with trees. There are many parks and two lakes within the city. It is quiet because it is not permissible to sound the horn. Our hotel, The Governor’s Residence, was top-notch with beautiful gardens, a lovely pool, and excellent service.

We loved the Governor’s Residence but learned that The Stand Hotel is the Grande Dame in Yangon, so we just had to check it out. The hotel hosted Rudyard Kipling, George Orwell, Somerset Maugham, King Edward, Peter Ustinov, David Rockefeller, and Sir Mick Jagger – to name just a few of the famous guests. Built in 1901, the stately Victorian Strand has not forgotten its British influence.  Every day The Stand serves Afternoon Tea in the Cafe. Tea was another one of those wonderful Myanmar surprises because they offer a choice of Myanmar High Tea and Classic Afternoon Tea. We were too early for tea so John and I made reservations and headed to the Pagoda of the Reclining Buddha. At 24 feet in length it is an impressive site.  But even more impressive was an invitation to visit the monk’s living quarters.  We walked  quietly through the communal sleeping area because most of the monks were napping.

We returned to The Stand for tea and were unable to decide which tea to have. So we had both! John opted for the Classic Afternoon Tea, which he felt was fitting for such a classic setting. John’s tea, presented in the usual manner on a tiered tray, included sandwiches of parma ham, smoked butterfish, and chicken, followed by a wonderful selection of pastries and a wide variety of teas.

I chose the Myanmar High Tea, which was a treat for the eyes and the palate. I loved the presentation.  My tea arrived in a traditional layered black lacquer Tiffin Carrier.  Each stacked tray held a special surprise.  The Tea Leaf Salad, a delectable mix of shrimp, sesame, tomato, cabbage, and seasoning, was followed by vegetable puffs and spring rolls. Sweets included Sticky Rice Flour Dumpling with Sweet Toddy Tree Jaggery, Semolina Fruitcake, and bananas in caramel! We were unfamiliar with Sweet Toddy Tree Jaggery and learned it is a candy made from the toddy palm tree. The toddy palm is an important part of Myanmar rural life providing shade, drink, and food, as well as material for making household utensils. Jaggery is made by boiling the sap until it thickens which turns it into a sweet treat.  Yummy!

Myanmar was one surprise after another. It is very safe for tourists and the people are friendly.  The Orient-Express Road to Mandalay riverboat is a one-of-a-kind luxury trip.  Lake Inle is home to the unique leg-rowing fishermen, and Ngapoli Beach is world-class. We plan to include Myanmar, and, of course, Afternoon Tea at The Strand, on our next Asian vacation.

Visit www.ghmhotels.com, www.governorsresidence.com.

Sandra Scott is a frequent contributor to travel publications and to Copley News Service and has co-authored two books on local history. She lives in Mexico, NY.

Images courtesy of Sandra Scott, J.J. Scott.

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