The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse: A Special Cup of Tea

By Jennifer M. Eisenlau

 


Whenever I have out of town guests visiting me in Colorado, one of our first stops is the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse. In a world of similar franchise chains serving the same dishes, this teahouse is a rare treat, unlike anything else you have ever experienced. From an eclectic menu, to an exotic decor, to an intriguing history, the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse is a rare gem in the heart of a rare town.

Located next-door to the Boulder Museum of Contemporary Art, the teahouse is a hand-carved, hand-painted masterpiece.  As you walk in, above your head is the pergola, covered in green vines in the warm moths. The Boulder Creek rushes swiftly by, and you can sip hibiscus cooler iced tea and dine al fresco under the shade of grapevines. The outside of the building is as beautiful as the inside, so dining outside is a double delight.  Eight colorful ceramic panels, designed by Victor Zabolotnikov tell a story of the "Tree of Life."

Upon entering, you are met in the entrance by The Fountain of Seven Beauties. Your eyes will gaze upon large oil art canvases, blowing gauze curtains, and bright bold-colored panels on the walls, ceiling, and pillars. The intricately carved panels, the work of artist Kodir Rhakimov, merge a  contemporary style that merges the ancient world of Persia with modern Asia.  Inside and out, the teahouse dazzles the eye. Over forty artisans worked for three years to create the building.

Tables fill the restaurant; yet some of the best seats are not at tables at all, Rather they are topjans. When calling (reservations are best), I always ask for these seats. The experience is truly unique as you sit on pillows, surrounding the platform. With your shoes off and a cup of spicy chai tea in your hand, you will be dining like Alexander the Great because the topjans recall the teahouse's roots in Central Asia.

Tea is served cold and hot, with many blends crafted specially for the teahouse. There are over eighty varieties brewing each day. A summer favorite is bubble tea—a fruity concoction of tea, juices, and sparkling water. All hot tea comes in a pot with a timer, so your beverage steeps perfectly. In the winter months, an old fashioned high tea is served,  complete with finger sandwiches and scones.

The Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse serves eclectic dishes: Indian samosas, Hawaiian poke, Middle Eastern hummus, Brazilian calamari, Spanish tapas, Cuban tuna, Korean squid, and Dutch croquettes.  Two favorites with diners are the Tajik lamb kabobs or Yucatan
 tilapia. Desserts include a rich rice pudding served in a teacup and a warm gingerbread with cream.

The teahouse was a gift to Boulder from its sister city of Dushanbe in Tajikistan (located near China). The building sat for years in Boulder, stored away in hundreds of boxes awaiting assembly. Finally, the teahouse was constructed in City Park. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, the teahouse sits right in the middle of the busy Farmers' Market.

No good story is without its gossip, and Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse has its own. Dushabe, the capital of the small country of Tajikistan, (population of 525,000) was under Soviet rule until 1991. The mayor of Dushanbe sent Boulder this Central Asian tea house–complete with carvings, panels, tiles, and furniture–as a token of the cities' friendship. Boulder decided to send Dushanbe a cyber cafe. However, it took years and years of fundraising to deliver the gift through the Dushanbe Cyber Cafe Gift project. Each time I visit the teahouse, I drop in a few dollars toward the fundraising effort. Local folks felt chagrinned to think a poor country like Tajikistan would have to wait for a gift from its much wealthier sister city. Finally, after years and years, the cafe has broken ground in Dushanbe.

I tell this tale of the sister cities to my visitors as we sip fragrant Rainforest iced tea, under the elaborately carved ceilings.  When people come to the Boulder Dushanbe Teahouse, they feel like they have really been someplace unique and special—just like
the town at the foot of the Rocky Mountains that is now  its home.
 
Travel writer Jennifer M. Eisenlau lives in Boulder.

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