Tea at the Victoria, BC, Fairmont Empress Hotel:
The Epitome British Style and Grace in the New World

By Anne Garber

Victoria, BC, is the perfect oasis, the epitome of British style and grace in the New World, and the home of perhaps the most authentic "High Tea" service available today.

Upon your arrival in Victoria you will be enchanted with the cobbled alleyways, fashionable shopping squares, ubiquitous silver and china shops and, of course, the elegant tea rooms. You simply must experience is Afternoon Tea at the renowned grand dame of them all . . . the Fairmont Empress Hotel. This beloved tradition at the Empress is enjoyed by more than 115,000 guests and local residents each year.

The ritual of tea service originated in China, where tea-brewing and serving is considered an art form. By the 19th century, the Duchess of Bedford, who experienced a sinking feeling around five in the afternoon, asked her friends to join her for tea, buttered bread and little cakes. Due to the Duchess' sensitive constitution, the tradition of Afternoon Tea as we know it was born.

Afternoon Tea at the Empress is served in several locations, including the stately Harbourside Room or under the hand-painted ceiling of the Library Lounge. Of course, we opted for the largest and most grand room of them all, the opulent Tea Lobby, where Victoria ladies would appear regularly (as late as the '70s) in full-fancy-hat regalia. The patina of Victorian elegance and grace permeates the space. Large bay windows along the entire length of the room offer magnificent views of Victoria's Inner Harbor. While portraits of King George V and Queen Mary are displayed opposite each other over the Tea Lobby's two massive stone fireplaces. You will want to make an online reservation at least a week prior to your visit, as there usually isn't an empty table to be found. In fact, when you book, you are likely to be informed that your reservation will be honored for only 15 minutes past the appointed time and then released to other guests. Believe me, it's worth being on time!

The hotel does have a dress code of what they call "smart casual," which means no torn jeans, short shorts, tank tops or jogging suits. We did notice that several patrons waiting in line for their tables did not fully comply with the dress code regulations. They were not asked to leave, but I daresay more than one eyebrow was raised in their direction.

After our arrival (15-minutes early, just to be safe), we were seated at a lovely table by the large bay window. Our decadent indulgence began with a crystal bowl of fresh blueberries topped with a dollop of Chantilly cream. Next, steaming signature Empress Blend tea was poured into our Royal Doulton tea cups. This rich, coppery-gold blend incorporates Chinese, Kenyan, Indian and Ceylon components.

High tea is generally a major production: Like a vintage wine or rich, dark chocolate, tea is a delicacy. In fact, we learned that the local water supply can have a distinct effect on the taste of various teas. Indeed, Murchie's Empress Blend was created with the local water conditions in mind.

A magnificent, silver tiered server was placed in the center of our table. Like an overflowing cornucopia, each tier was dripping with mouth-watering delicacies. The service began with finger-sized tea sandwiches filled with cucumber, smoked BC salmon and cream cheese, carrot and ginger with cream cheese, open-faced shrimp mousse with fresh papaya and curry mango chicken salad. Next, freshly baked scones with strawberry preserves and clotted cream appeared. Last, an assortment of light pastries, including chocolate truffles (my favorite), fresh fruit and lemon tarts, miniature chocolate éclairs, and cardamom-shortbread cookies. When the foodstuffs first arrived, we all glanced at each other and began discussing where we would go for dinner after this light appetizer. Forty minutes later, we decided to cancel our dinner reservations. Future patrons take note: This is a hearty, (albeit sweet) meal, so plan accordingly. And expect to be more than satisfied.

Visit www.fairmont.com/Empress/.

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